Does it meet code to run heat supply ducts inside of cold air returns?
Yes.
Furnace in crawl space advantages, disadvantages?
For you – more living space, for the installers and service persons – pain in the butt.
How far apart is a bathroom vent fan supposed to be from the A/C vent?
What is A/C vent anyways?
How much to tap in to existing duct work to cool a garage?
Nothing – because it's against code…
How riser ducts work?
Just like any other duct…
How to figure out offsets in ductwork without a wall?
Find detailed explanations on this page.
How to find center line length of round offset?
In order to calculate one you do not need to find a center line. Find $3.00 and spend them on this page.
How to know if PVC piping for American standard furnace s/be 2inch or 3 inch?
For any 80.000 BTU-s condensing furnace and lower use 2” pipes, otherwise 3”.
How to run ductwork panning for return for open web joists?
Learn how to do it in Chapter #34 of my Ductwork Installation Guide book.
Is a 6 inch duct pipe large enough to supply 2 bedrooms?
No.
My heat and air guy says not to close off vents in unused rooms as it is bad for the heating unit…
Well, he is too young to know the whole truth… Learn what you should do on this page.
Should I let my builder install hvac ducts in my attic?
If possible keep this builder away from your attic…
What is a duct installer?
The guy that make all kinds of noises all day long! It’s why they call him a tin knocker…
When measuring sheet metal ducting is it drive to drive?
Yes.
Where can I buy a plenum kit for a Goodman air handler?
Well, maybe at your local tin shop…
Which is the best duct installation out there on the market?
Yours! But only if you will learn ways how to do it in my Ductwork Installation Guide book.
Why am I getting ice in my cold air intake in my basement?
Because it isn’t insulated.
Will a cold air return prevent window condensation?
No.
Will closing vents in unused rooms cause furnace to fail to ignite?
No. |
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Noise Reduction Search Results 2
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For quiet some time I saw some treads here and there where people were trying to bypass my site and find a solution online some place else. But this one below had really raised my eyebrows, not to mention its so funny!
Question
How to reduce or stop duct "cracking/popping"?
We just moved into our house two weeks ago. Just about every night I wake up to, what I would call, clicking or popping of the duct work under our bedroom as the ducts heat up at the start of a cycle and for several minutes after the furnace quits. I've heard it in houses before but never this loudly, or for this long a time period. The basement is unfinished so I have complete access, and these 2 ducts are the furthest from the furnace (60' run).
Any words of wisdom on how to reduce, dull, or eliminate the metal noise? It is driving me nuts! Thanks all!
What this poster is describing is actually a ticking noise. But if he wanted to get “any words of wisdom” – he is definitely in the wrong place!
Answer 1
Definitely in the heating cycle as you see...it's just expansion POP and cooling off contraction CRACK. If you have an area standing under the duct and here it the most...might need a hanger to tighten it up. To test this 2 pieces 2x4 T and hammer it under the duct from the floor to support the area...move it around to see if you eliminate the pop/crack
Last resort would be to dent the supply in the area of the expansion noise.
Post some pictures and we can give some comprehensive solution once we see exactly what it looks like.
So, what this guy is suggesting is to put duct on legs and see what happens… And if it do not help make some dents in the duct! But see below there is even better and much bolder solution!
Answer 2
I have found over the years that the best way to reduce or in some cases eliminate this type of noise is to "relax" the trunk line.........we do this by strapping the duct system up......then undoing ALL the original hangers.... and then re- attaching them. Most of this noise is caused by a structure settling over the years and putting tension on a trunk line as it does.......by UN attaching and re-attaching you relieve the stress. This really does work; we have done it many times.
Let me start with the notion that it would never work and I doubt that he even ever tried to do it himself anyway – just his wild thoughts…
Answer 3
You can also just go push it up and down from underneath in a bunch of places and it may settle into a new happy quiet space. If not then loosening and redoing the hangers may help. Get the wife to turn the heat on and off while you stand under the duct to see where it is coming from is necessary.
If you find a section that is actually moving/being inflated etc you may end up reinforcing it as the metal they use now is as thin as possible. Get a piece of angle iron or the stuff they make shelves from in warehouses and screw it to that section. Pros use a piece of S-cleat which is three layers thick and you can get it at a sheet metal shop. HDepot has aluminum and steel angle iron/metal in the screws and hardware section.
What this so-called pro trying to suggest is a fix to the different problem! I would assume that at this point he already forgot what the original poster was asking for!
Answer 4
 You guys are doing it the hard way...just use one ‘a these and show BaBa or Pierre where to smack the duct...last resort as I said.
...DA' ...WHERE DOES I HIT IT, YURI??? DA...'EY, YURI, WHEN DO I GETS TO SMASH 'D DUCK' ALREADY???
He does the tear outs between wrestling dates!
At this point the party gets wild! Now they have started to make a fun!
So, I thought that that poor fellow got enough and I was stupid enough to offer him my help. I’ve sent him an email:
Hi, you can go to my site and find a solution there, or you can hire me, because I'm your neighbor, and I'll fix it for you.
Ed
But this guy didn’t even look in my profile, probably because he still has a dream… dream of free, and ultimate solution! |
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Follow up
Went down there tonight, really notice it a lot more from the other side of the floor! 1st pic is the main trunk coming across the house to the bedroom (the corner we're facing). 2nd pic is the end of the trunk that makes the loudest and most repetitive noise. 3rd pic is another register in the bedroom that throws a lot of noise; it is in the far corner of the 1st pic. Last pic is bedroom on the other end of the house, it’s a spare room so I never pay attention to it but being in the basement it is one heck of a loud pop as it cools off.
 
  Thanks for all the feedback, sounds like I need to go and play with the joints and strapping and see where we get.
Well good luck with that…
Answer 5
The last time I encountered a house with the problems you describe. The ductwork was too small. You could actually see the duct swell when the furnace started and relax when the furnace shut off. On this house the return was worse than the supply as the rerun duct sucked in on start up and relaxed on shutdown. I increased the ductwork, I added flex duct connectors and the noise was all gone.
Here is another idiot who just love to tell his success stories that have nothing to do with the problem above.
Answer 6
A number of my clients who have decided to run the furnace fan continuously to help with air filtration for allergies or to overcome a poor heat distribution layout list the quieting of the formally oil caning ducting as a side benefit.
Who was complaining about oil can noises? But never mind – this is my story and I’m going to make sure that the entire world knows about it now. And it doesn’t matter that “number of my customers” pay as twice, or even more, as much for their electrical bills and most likely do not use it anymore, but I’d found a temporary solution for them and I’m very proud of that!
This thread is already closed. I think that the original poster hired Triple H with a sledge hammer and the problem with the stupid ticking ducts doesn’t exist anymore…
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Question
Hopefully this is the right sub forum to ask but is it OK to lay PVC (plumbing vent, HVAC) on top of a 2x4 or lumber for support? I noticed one of the 2x4 is slightly loose and made sure none of the PVC is held tightly around plastic J straps.
As you can see from the picture this is in my attic where temperature swing can be drastic. I am hearing intermittent popping noises that I am thinking could be PVC movement.
What's the best practice to support PVC? Would it be better for me to hang the top using rubber straps?
I also noticed intake and exhaust PVC from my HVAC equipment surrounded by spray foam and I am curious if that would restrict movement and cause noise?
Answer
I would leave them alone. The popping noises are pretty hard to get rid of.
My attic can be -40F in the winter and when I dump hot water down the sink the vent gets a load of steam and can pop. Just normal thermal expansion.
Leave the furnace venting alone as you have a concentric exhaust kit and both of the pipes need to be loose as they expand/contract at different rates and will make lots of noise if tight. As long as they are not sagging and have dips in them/low spots where water can collect they are OK.
“The popping noises are pretty hard to get rid of” – this guy is wrong…
Follow up
Hi Yuri... thanks for your response. I am with you on this... I can totally see myself screwing things up more.
I checked pipes and they seemed loose enough to move. I am concerned with the 2x4 being slightly loose so I might tighten that a bit.
Finally, I have a separate furnace room in the attic with full insulation. That's where the HVAC pipes (exit). These are surrounded by drywall and spray foam so they must be pretty tight. Could these make noises? I don't want a gap around the pipes since furnace room is conditioned room.
The OP say: “I checked pipes and they seemed loose enough to move”, but he doesn’t realize that it contradicts Yuri’s suggestion – the pipes are loose, but still making noise!
Answer
They usually make noises right where the concentric kit is (part where they join at the roof). I doubt you can hear that. The noise is there because you have a hot pipe and cold pipe attaching at the same spot and they expand at different rates. Not actually hot but warm.
If it ain't broke don't go fixing it is my motto.
There is not that much expansion either. Unlike a steam line which can move a lot. Sometimes the noise is if it is tight against a furnace or ductwork and then people can hear it.
“They usually make noises right where the concentric kit is (part where they join at the roof).” – total BS! This guy knows nothing. In my house I have two concentric kits and none of them making any noises.
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Ticking Noise Elimination Page
It has been more then ten years since I have discovered the way how to fight the ticking noise issue including six years since I have started helping people on the web. So now, it was time when I put all my experience together on the one webpage. On this page you can find the following:
- How to find a source of the ticking noise in your basement, wall, B-vent pipe chase or in the attic and how to quiet it down once and for all
- How to cut a drywall if the source of the noise is behind it and how to fix drywall when it is done
- What to do if the ticking noise is coming from the wall and how to eliminate it without cutting a drywall
- What to do if your ductwork is making ticking noise in the attic
- How to eliminate a ticking noise if it is coming from PVC or copper pipes of your water heater or boiler inside and/or PVC concentric cap outside of your house
If after you have read on the page and you are still having a question or your case is not present on the page, you can type your question in the Feedback module on the page and send it to me free of charge.
Price for the instant access to the page is only $9.17! Just use the “Buy Now” button below.
Instant Access:
After you have purchased a paid page; PayPal is going to bring you back to my website. In order to see the paid page you have to click on the “Register” button, fill out the form, choose your own Username and Password, click on the arrow at the top of the page, move the form up and click on the “Register” button at the bottom of the form – congratulation, you are now on the page you have paid for!
Important: After you have purchased any Paid page or Download page and PayPal brought you back to my website, the first thing that you should do is to save that page to your Favorites. Then if something goes wrong you always can come back to re-register yourself on my website again.
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