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Heat Pump Noise 2

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List of Noises 4:

Buzzing sound 1
Chirping noise
Clicking noise
Groaning sound
Hissing sound

If you have a Goodman heat pump that keeps making loud buzzing sound even when the fan is not running and The noise goes away when you turn move inside thermostat to off. Then its possible that the solenoid coil is energized and making the noise. Cleaning the iron core of the solenoid mechanism with fine sandpaper may stop the noise. If not, the noise is harmless to the machine. If it bugs you, change the solenoid coil.

If you have a chirping noise, It is usually caused by dry bearings from low usage or age, a fan rubbing on the coils or blower cage or a belt that needs replacing.
The best thing to do is let the unit run for a few minutes and see if it goes away or lessens in volume or duration. If it does, note it and tell your A/C tech when he comes out to service the unit. If it gets louder or more constant like a squeal then turn off the unit before it does any more damage.

If your heat pump makes a loud fast clicking noise when in heating mode. It does not do this in a/c, emergency heat, or fan mode. Also, with every click, the thermostat dims. Then it’s a solenoid that’s making the clicking noise..

If you have a 05D-024K Single Package Heat Pump that makes a loud low groaning sound after the main fan shut down and before the unit starts the next heat cycle. Then there could be a blower wheel that sometimes will come loose. It will spin inside itself and have squeal to it. The wheel is pressed together where the inside of wheel meets the vanes. It gets loose and makes a noise.
A groaning noise on shutdown is almost always compressor.

If your new Bryant Evolution Heat pump is making a bit of a hissing sound in "heating" mode. Then the refrigerant lines maybe touching one of the supply vents, and the noise is transferred and amplified. Slight adjustment and all is taken and the noise is gone.

List of Noises 5:

Knocking and Banging noises
Knocking noise 1

Humming noise 
Sloshing/gurgling noise

If you have an Amana heat pump and Honeywell VisionPRO IAQ and having problem in the defrost mode noise.
When it goes into defrost you can hear it shut down, and it appears to wait only 5 seconds, if that, after the whoosh of the reversing valve before it starts banging and clanking as the compressor kicks back in, then since you are using your system in the "legacy" mode, maybe you should ask your contractor about a DFTD-1. It may save you some money over the Comfort-net thermostat.
The DFTD-1 kit is designed to shut the compressor off for 20 seconds when the defrost cycle is initiated and 15 seconds at termination of the defrost cycle. This will allow dealers to offer a Quiet Shift feature when the unit is installed near a customer’s window or if they are experiencing a slow shifting reversing valve. This Defrost Time Delay Kit has demonstrated significant reduction in the compressor sound at the initiation and termination of defrost in many installations.
It's an add on accessory offered by Amana-Goodman to help with noise during defrost..

If you have a knocking noise - this can be a couple of things, the compressor is wearing out or broken, the refrigerant pressures are too high or even too low, a sticking valve in the refrigerant system, even a loose compressor can cause this.

If you have an Armstrong 17 seer heat pump that in a heat mode makes a loud humming noise from the outdoor unit when it started up and went into defrost, then it might be a bad TXV valve.

If you have a Trane X19i with XV80 indoor unit, VS motor. The coil has TXV. When the system is in cooling mode - Stage 1, with a low load, ambient temp lower in the evening and mornings, the liquid line makes sloshing/gurgling noise right at the coil.
When the demand is higher - mid day, the noise is not present (still in Stage 1)
There is no gurgling noise in Stage 2. Then consider this - mixture of liquid and vapor refrigerant is traveling through the line when only liquid should be present at that point. This would cause lower capacity as the metering device would not have a solid column of liquid refrigerant behind it, causing flash gas. Also, overcharging it to compensate would result in less condensing surface area resulting in the condenser acting as a receiver equaling less efficiency.

List of Noises 6:

Buzzing sound 2
Knocking noise 2
Buzzing noise 3
Whining noise
Awful noise
Humming/buzzing noise

If you have an Armstrong 18 SEER HP that when the first cold weather arrived the outdoor unit is making a buzzing sound and the house is cold. Also it makes the sound that does kinda sound like a jack hammer. Then if the noise sound like a jack hammer (loud and pulsing) it's the reversing valve getting stuck somewhere in the middle.

If your Rheem heat pump knocking intermittently and it is loud and resemble a washing machine that is out of balance. The sound seems to transfer through the Freon lines, and it’s even louder at the outside unit. Then you should pump the system down. Take 5/16 copper tubing and make 4 loops about 12" dia. Braze this coil of tubing in the 3/8 liquid line at the indoor unit. Evacuate and recharge...

If your outside heat pump makes a continuous buzzing noise along with a short intermittent louder/lower frequency buzz noise and the fan never turns, the house attic unit fan runs but the house never cools. Then it could be that your condenser fan motor (outside unit) is 'frozen up.' Bearings are probably bad and it would be necessary having a Service Tech check it out.
Also it's possible a fan capacitor is bad. If it is bad - sometimes they will bulge which is a dead giveaway that it is bad. In which case you could take it down to an A/C parts house and get a replacement. If you do this - be sure all power is off and you mark the wires when your remove the old fan cap and buy an exact replacement so you can hook it back up correctly.

If your Rheem Hvac system’s the outside unit making a very loud whining noise and the fan blades were not turning, but if you hit the reset button and the fan blades started to turn but did not come on making a very faint humming noise. Then it could just be the fan capacitor in the outside unit or the fan motor itself. Usually it is cheaper to just replace the capacitor first and if that does not work then replace the motor with the appropriate capacitor for the new motor.

If your Rheem dual stage heat pump is making some awful noises (watch video below) when it was set to heat, then it might the compressors internal relief valve opening and closing.
And what would cause the relief valve to open and close? - Dirty condenser coil or condenser fan spinning backwards, causing high head pressure. So, the first thing you should check for is a dirty filter. Second, check the indoor coil to see if it is dirty. Third make sure all registers are open. After that if you don't find anything then you should call a professional. 

If your Carrier Infinity heat pump condenser has been making a humming/buzzing noise when it is not running and its sounds exactly like a transformer (like for a doorbell) then it is definitely the transformer in the condenser.                                                                                                 

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